Blade Sharpening Service

Sawmill Blade Sharpening Service
We sharpen portable sawmill blades. Antigonish County, Nova Scotia.

Saw mill blade setting and sharpening service

Sharpening service for the smaller, stationary and portable sawmills using standard 13º, 10º, 9º, 7º and 4º profiles. Our equipment uses oil cooled CBN wheels for accurate, sharp profile work. We cover brands including Baker, Dakin Flathers (Ripper37), Hakensson, Hudson, Lennox, Montfort, Norwood, SMG Champion, Simonds, Timbry, Woodland Mills, Woodmizer, etc.

Cost: $10.00 per blade. Returning customers pay $9.00.

Clean blades: Blades should be cleaned before sending them. Rusty blades or blades with pitch built up on them that require a wire wheel put to them, will be charged a $3 cleaning fee per blade.

To maintain the integrity of the steel on your blades, when they come off your mill, give them a cleaning and wipe them down with some mineral oil, hydraulic or transmisison oil. Any oil will do really. Damp a rag with the fluid, wipe the blade on both sides as you pass it through your fingers.

Blade Welding Service (coming soon)

Inspect your blades at this time and note any cracks, bends or broken teeth. A cracked blade might be repairable. If you have broken a blade, that might be reapirable too.

A bent blade could possibly be fixed. If your blade is missing a couple teeth, that doesn’t affect the performance too much based on the feedback I’ve gotten when we sharpen teeth with some tooth damage. I’ve sharpened blades that had up to 26 teeth missing. Having said that, a lot depends on the amount damage.

When you are done your inspection put the blades in your pile to be sharpened.

Turn-around time: Typically 1-3 days.

How to Ship: You can drop off your blades yourself. We’re always interested in talking with our customers to see how things are going. Or you can ship the blades to us using courier or post office. A box of 10 blades typically cost $25-$28 to ship within the Maritimes. Most customers pack up their blades in one of two methods (shown further below), that being either flat pack or coil packed. Note in the coil back how the blades are placed back to back, then separated with cardboard or thin plywood. The flat pack boxes are great for storage and transport.

Shipping back to you: Payment is required prior to shipping the blades back to you. We accept Cash, Visa, Mastercard, PayPal and e-transfer.

If you have other profile requests please contact us first for availability.

We sell Ripper37 sawmill blades. Some blades in stock. Discount on purchase of 10 or more. We ship your order direct from the factory to save you time and money. Contact Jim for a quote.

Putting on a new blade.
A custom flat pack box. Keep your blades safe during storage and transport.
Ten blades per flat pack box. Panel slides in place. Sliding panel no longer made, broke easily. So instead the panel is now simply screwed on.
Keep it together! 🙂

Circular Saw Blade Sharpening

We offer sharpening services for circular saw blades used in hand tools such as biscuit joiners, circular saws, table saws, miter saw and bush/brush saws.

We charge by the tooth, most common blades, the fee is $0.50 per tooth. Discount offered on volume sharpening (for contractors and carpenters).

Circular saw blade sharpening.

Chisel Sharpening

Flat face chisels can be sharpened, $5 each.

Jointer Knives Sharpening

Jointer knives up to 24 inches long can be sharpened. Price depends on condition. Average fee $20 for a set of double edged knives.

Blade Problem Solving

  1. Heavy even wear on tips.
    1. High tooth tip temperature brings about faster dulling of the tips, likely due to lack of lubricant or type of lubricant
    2. Too fast an engine speed or push speed for the type of material being cut.
  2. Teeth are worn on both sides.
    1. The blade is riding on the band wheel, or hitting the guides.
    2. Blade is being backed out of an incomplete cut with out proper wedges in place to reduce friction.
  3. Wear on one side only, typically outside set.
    1. The blade is not perpendicular to the cutting plane.
    2. The blade is rubbing against the cut surface while pulling the mill back to the start position.
    3. Check the machine for teeth contacting some internal part of the mill.
  4. Fractured, bent or missing teeth.
    1. Incorrect blade selection for material being cut.
    2. Handling damage due to incorrect unfolding of the sawmill blade.
    3. Too fast a feed rate into the material being cut.
    4. Too fast an engine speed for the material being cut.
    5. Knotty wood or foreign material.
  5. Cracks on the back edge of the blade.
    1. Pushing too hard for the blade’s sharpness. If you are thinking, “just one or two more cuts”, your blade is too dull.
    2. Improper setup of blade on the mill with the back of the blade rubbing on the flange of the wheel guides.
    3. Wheel guides are worn or defective.
    4. Band tension is too high or too low.
  6. Teeth missing
    1. Feed rate is too fast or too slow.
    2. Material becomes dislodged while cutting.
    3. Improper tooth angle for material being cut.
    4. Knotty wood or foreign material.
    5. Incorrect amount of cooling lubricant.
  7. Chips impacted on tooth tips or gullet.
    1. Incorrect feed rate.
    2. Incorrect bandsaw speed.
    3. Incorrect amount of cooling lubricant or type for material being cut.
  8. Gullet filled with material.
    1. Too small a tooth angle (pitch) for the type of material being cut (gullet too small to carry away sawdust).
    2. Feed rate too fast causing gullet to carry more than it is designed to.
    3. Incorrect amount of lubricant.
  9. Burnt tooth tips due to high heat. Not to be confused with hardened tips which are blue in colour from the factory.
    1. Incorrect amount of lubricant to keep the blade cool while cutting.
    2. Too high an engine speed for the material being cut.
    3. Incorrect feed rate.
    4. Saw blade installed with teeth in wrong direction.
  10. Uneven wear or scoring on sides of bands.
    1. Blade guides are not working properly.
    2. Accumulation of sawdust, chips, bark or other material in the wheel shroud, check machine for foreign objects.
  11. Heavy wear on back edge of the blade, appears bright and shiny.
    1. Improper blade tracking, back of blade is rubbing on the wheel guides.
    2. Worn or defect wheel guides.
    3. Too fast a feed rate.
  12. Blade break – diagonal break
    1. Blade encountered unusual stress in path of cut.
    2. Guide arm too far away.
    3. Blade aligned on the wheel guides (or too close) so that when pushing, the blade is rubbing against the shoulder of the wheel guide.
  13. Blade break – gullet cracks
    1. Incorrect blade tension.
    2. Worn teeth – asking too much from a worn out blade.
  14. Blade band is twisted, bent or kinked.
    1. Improper folding or unfolding technique.
    2. Blade falls off wheels while cutting.
  15. Wavy cuts
    1. Dull blade.
    2. Incorrect feed rate.
    3. Incorrect engine speed.
    4. Incorrect blade tension.
  16. Wood scoring (saw marks on wood surface).
    1. If the under side of the wood coming off of the mill is scored, the inside set of teeth are the cause. A faint scoring means one or a few teeth are out of set. Heavy scoring is a result of several teeth out of set.
    2. If the top side of the wood still on the mill is scored, the outside set of teeth are the cause.
    3. When either condition occurs and you do not want saw marks on your wood, take the blade off and mark the blade “check inside set”, or, “check outside set”. The setting machine in our shop cannot detect set that is too far out, that has to be purposefully inspected.
  17. Out of set teeth.
    1. Improper blade handling, especially while folding or unfolding.
    2. Improper blade storage, especially while in transit. Do not place blades in your vehicle with the teeth facing down.
    3. Blade teeth are knocked out of alignment while installing. It takes very little effort to knock a tooth out of set.
    4. Blade encounters foreign object while cutting.
    5. Blade encounters hard knot(s) while cutting.
    6. If you visually inspected a suspect blade and see a tooth that is too far out of set, you can bend it to the center as a temp fix.