This sofa table has been on the to-do list for a couple years now. This weekend I put together this pine table having discussing with the dear wife what exactly she was looking for. We both already know that she can no longer just say, “I’d like to have a table”. I can make a table, but what kind, what size, what details. Details, its all in the details.
So, after a few attempts to get her to make decisions, I set about making the table. I actually had the pine in the workshop since Nov 2011. The table is about 53 inches long, 16 inches wide and 32 inches deep. Its up to her now to paint it to her liking.
I made use of the biscuit joiner to make up the panels. Other tools included the table saw, miter saw, jointer, and brad nailer. Supplies included a bit of 150 grit sand paper, #8 x 1-1/4 wood screws and some glue.
You will notice to the left of the long boards with the false drawer fronts, there 4 parts I glued up to get what was the original table leg, 31-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 inch legs. But once I made the table top and mocked up the parts for a quick look, it was clear the 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 legs were too skinny.
My solution was to make a right angle part that measured 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 inches on the outside, then fit the skinny leg inside, and leave a slight reveal. The end result was this.
The assembly went something like:
1. I knew the lower shelf gap was going to be 6 inches off the floor. So I cut 4 pieces of 6 inch long pieces from the skinny leg parts. Then glued these in place onto the right angle pieces.
2. The glue dries in about 15 minutes so that gives me time to finish some of the other parts, like cut grooves in the apron parts to accept the table top clips. More on that later.
3. Now its time to drop the 3/4 inch thick pine shelf in position and keep in place with a bit of glue and a few brads.
- Some math… that shelf top is now 6-3/4 from the floor. The right angle part is overall 31-1/4 tall. The apron is 6 inches high, that leaves 18.5 inches to cut from the remaining skinny leg parts to insert on the right angle parts. 31.5 – 6.75 – 6 = 18.5 inches.
4. Now to glue those 18.5 inch long parts in place. While the glue dries, I made up the table top clips. Next is to drop the apron parts in place, using a bit of glue and a few brads.
5. Now its time to attach the table top. Invert the top on the workbench and then position the table leg unit, measure to get it centered, then attach the table top clips. Clips like this are used simply to keep the table top in place while at the same time allowing the wood to move during the seasons.
Had the table top been screwed in place with pocket screws or secured with nails, most likely the top would have split at some point in the future. If that’s the look you are after, then don’t bother with the clips.
From the photo above you can see how I glued up the 16 inch wide panel using 6 inch wide boards. Notice the dark band? That’s from that board being leaned against a window with summer time morning sun exposure for +2 years.
All the table needs now is to be finished, which will be Gina’s task.